CART

Botnia Facial Protocol

Botnia sample facial (70 minute facial)

  1. Before facial treatment (5-10 minutes)
    • Step 1. Ask client what they feel about their skin to understand their beliefs, not to believe them.
    • Step 2. Feel and look at client’s skin for: where they’re dry, oily, hormones, products they use, goals.
    • Step 3. Build your Facial Plan based their goals and your findings about their skin (implication: never pre-mix for a client, even those you’ve worked with for a long time. That is not a truly custom facial).
    • Step 4. Start treatment.
  1.  Wrap face with warm towel  (2 minutes)
  1.  Cleanse to remove all makeup  (5 minutes)
    -Depending on skin type, double cleanse if necessary
  1.  Exfoliation Choice  (15 minutes)
    -Make sure you remove all remnants of the exfoliation mask
  1.  Massage Extraction Booster into skin; do extractions  (1-2 minutes focused on congested areas)
    -You can add Treatment Oil if client has stubborn congestion
  1.  Use Toner if your client’s skin is red and inflamed  (1 minute)
  1.  Massage skin with Treatment Oil and add Hyaluronic Acid Serum if clients skin is dehydrated. Apply mask on top of treatment oil  (10 minutes)
    -Do not remove base layer of hydrating oil or hyaluronic
  1.  Finishing Mask (~15 minutes)
    -Let mask sit for up to 15 minutes
  1.  Wrap feet in warm towel and massage feet, pulling the client’s energy down and taking down inflamation in the nervous system  (5-10 minutes during Finishing Mask)
    -Always wash hands with soap and water after massaging feet
  1. Take off mask  (2-3 minutes)
  1. Use Toner, Hyaluronic Acid, Eye Cream, Face Cream and Suncare to finish facial (5 minutes)

Compounds

Sulphur Compound

Physical Form: Powder
Function: Activator, Soother

Antibacterial and Antifungal – Elemental sulfur is a powerful antibacterial and antifungal agent, making it a great treatment for bacterial dermatitis or bacterial-induced acne.

Keratolytic (kare-at-oh-lih-tic)Keratolytics are chemicals that serve to loosen the fibrous structural proteins in the epidermis known as keratin.  Loosening these proteins can enhance the skin’s ability to maintain moisture.  This process also adds to sulfur’s efficacy at treating both rosacea and eczema.
*For more information about colloidal oatmeal in this compound reference the “Organic Colloidal Oatmeal Compound” data sheet.

Organic Kale Compound

Physical Form: Powder
Function: Amplifier,Exfoliator,Soother

Vitamin A – Promoting cell growth in the dermis and epidermis, vitamin A has many benefits in promoting healthy skin.  Low levels of vitamin A can adversely affect sebaceous glands, leading to flaky and dry skin.  Furthermore, vitamin A promotes cellular growth and helps to repair damaged skin cells.

Vitamin K1 – A vital chemical needed for photosynthesis in plants, vitamin K1 is particularly abundant in kale.  Studies have shown evidence of a variety of benefits of topical use of vitamin K1 on skin such as improved elasticity and mitigation of dark circles or bruising.  Critically, vitamin K1 helps blood coagulate and prevents calcification of blood vessels, making it a great ingredient for use after extractions.  It is also an excellent treatment for rosacea.

Vitamin B6 – An excellent example of the benefits of using whole-plant treatments on skin rather than concentrated extracts, vitamin B6 fights overproduction of sebum and thus helps to fight acne when used at low concentrations.  Overtreatment with an excess of vitamin B6 has actually been shown to increase occurrence of acne.

Manganese – A metallic ion that is required cofactor for an enzyme called prolidase, which is required enzyme for collagen synthesis, manganese is important for everyday skin health.  In addition to its collagen production role, manganese also functions as an antioxidant in skins cells and other cell types.  It helps protect skin against oxidative stress and damage from ultraviolet radiation.

Organic Greens Compound

Physical Form: Powder
Function: Buffer, Soother

Carotenoids (kah-rot-in-oids) – Kale, spinach, and broccoli are all rich sources of a variety of the plant pigments, carotenoids.  Many of these carotenoids such as lutein, zeaxanthin, and neoxanthin all have been shown to boost the skin’s resistance to photodamage.

Sulforaphane (sul-for-ah-fane)This powerful anticarcinogen is liberated from the broccoli powder and made biologically available under acidic conditions.  While sulforaphane is not absorbed directly into the cells of the dermis or epidermis, it does help remove damaging chemicals from the intercellular spaces and fluids.

Sulfur – All cruciforms, such as kale, broccoli, and spinach, are rich in a family of compounds called glucosinolates.  Under acidic conditions, glucosinolates are broken down in such a way that the sulfur is liberated.  Sulphur is a powerful antibacterial, which makes for an effective treatment for bacterial dermatitis and acne.

Vitamin E and Manganese – Spinach boosts the content of vitamin E and manganese in this compound.

*For information on the additional benefits of the Organic Greens Compound, such as vitamins A, K, and B6, reference the “Organic Kale Compound” data sheet.

Organic Rosehips Compound

Physical Form: Powder
Function: Buffer, Soother

Lutein and Zeaxanthin (loo-teen and zay-ah-zan-thin) – Lutein and its isomer zeaxanthin are both plant pigments.  These pigments have been shown to increase the photoprotective properties of skin when applied topically. This benefit has been shown to range from 2-2.5% increased protection from photodamage.

Beta-carotene (bay-tah-care-oh-teen)Another plant pigment in the carotenoid group, beta-carotene also has photoprotective benefits for the skin.  Beta-carotene is also a precursor molecule of vitamin A.  Since vitamin A can be an irritant, the provitamin form allows the skin to absorb a source of vitamin A without creating redness or inflammation.

Lycopene (lie-coh-peen)Another plant pigment, lycopene absorbs light across a different spectrum than other carotenoids thus expanding the photoprotective range of this compound.

Vitamin C – Rosehips are a rich source of L-ascorbic acid (the biologically available isomer of vitamin C) and can range from 0.3-1.3% vitamin C by mass.  Since L-ascorbic acid is quickly oxidized, powdered rosehips allow vitamin C to be delivered to the skin in its bioavailable form at safe doses without causing irritation.

Whole Fruit Powder – Since many of the beneficial, photoprotective carotenoids present in rosehips are not readily soluble in any solvent other than alcohols, using a whole fruit powder allows these chemicals to be delivered to the skin without oxidation and without the damaging, drying effects of alcohols.  Furthermore, as with many plant extracts many of the organic compounds are most effective when they work synergistically.

Organic Chamomile Compound

Physical Form: Powder
Function: Buffer, Soother

Terpenes (tur-peens) Chamomile contains several classes of organic compounds called terpenes and flavonoids, which have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Cellular Health – A potent source of the terpene, apigenin, chamomile helps induce a process by which cells destroy and recycle unnecessary components within the cell. This promotes healthier and more efficient cellular growth.

Bisabolol (bis-ah-boe-lahl) Another terpene, bisabolol has been shown to reduce inflammation and irritation and to act as an antimicrobial agent.  Bisabolol has also been shown to improve absorption of certain chemicals more deeply in the skin.

Whole Flower Powder – Many of the beneficial compounds found in chamomile are not readily extracted via distillation nor are they readily soluble in water or glycerin.  By using a whole-flower product, a larger dose of these beneficial chemicals is delivered to the skin.  Furthermore, as with many plant extracts many of the beneficial organic compounds are most effective when they work synergistically.

Colloidal Oats Compound

Physical Form: Powder
Function: Buffer and Soother

Colloidal (co-loid-al) – This simply refers to the particle size of the powdered oatmeal and its ability to remain suspended in a solution.  A colloidal compound is ground to a particle diameter of 1 to 1000 nanometers.  This super-fine powder is used because it allows for the insoluble oat particles to be suspended in a solution, and it increases the surface area to mass ratio of the particles, which make more of the oat proteins available to be liberated into the base solution.

Polysaccharides (pah-lee-sak-ah-rides) – A carbohydrate molecule that consists of a chain of sugar molecules, polysaccharides have a gel-like texture when combined with a solvent such as water and help your skin retain moisture.  They also create a protective layer over the skin.

Profilaggrin (pro-fill-ah-grin) This organic compound can improve the skin’s barrier functionality by increasing the production of filaggrin, an essential building block of the skin barrier.

Avenanthramides (ah-ven-an-thra-mides) A unique group of antioxidant compounds not found in other plant sources, avenanthramides reduce reactive oxygen species which in turn reduces redness and inflammation.  They also play a role in mitigating irritation from excessive sun exposure (UV radiation).

Beta-glucan (bay-tah-gloo-can) A polysaccharide present in oats, beta-glucan is responsible for the protective and water-retention functions of oat.  Beta-glucan has also been shown to act as an immunomodulator, stimulating and enhancing natural immune responses.  This property makes oats an excellent treatment for wounds and damaged skin.

Replenishing Treatments

Treatment Oil

Physical Form: Oil
Function:  Soother

Jojoba Oil (ho-ho-bah) Classified as a liquid wax, jojoba oil is comprised mostly of fatty acid esters and has very low triglyceride content making it resistant to oxidation.  These waxy esters make jojoba oil soothing and non-greasy.

Carotenoids (car-ot-in-oids) Oil-soluble carotenoids from the various botanicals are cold-extracted over a period of 4 weeks.  These carotenoids, such as carotene or callenic acid, promote healthy cellular function by providing a source of provitamins to the skin.  Many carotenoids also have antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Terpenes (tur-peen)A large family of compounds found in many plants, terpenes have a variety of benefits for the skin.  These benefits include fighting inflammation, reducing oxidative stress and combating topical pathogens.

Hyaluronic Acid

Physical Form: Gel
Function:  Soother, Pusher

Hyaluronic Acid (hi-al-yur-on-ik ah-sid) – An incredibly effective humectant, hyaluronic acid holds 1,000 times its weight in water.  Furthermore, hyaluronic acid binds to cell-surface proteins thus delivering and holding moisture in the intercellular matrix.  This molecule also acts as a natural delivery system driving larger or hydrophilic molecules that do not easily penetrate the skin’s surface.  

Rose Geranium Hydrosol – Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, rose geranium is great for very sensitive skin types.  Organic acids aid in exfoliation and create glowing, refreshed skin.

Vitamin B3 – Topical provitamin B3 has a variety of benefits for promoting and enhancing the barrier functions of skin as well as combating inflammation.  B3 is a precursor to cofactors that promote barrier protein and lipid production.  It has also been shown to inhibit the production of certain compounds that can inflame the skin.

Gel Masks

Calendula Mask

Physical Form: Gel
Function: Pusher, Buffer, Accelerator

Flavonoids (flah-vin-oids) A group of aromatic, organic compounds, flavonoids such as quercetin have been shown to inhibit melanin production thus reducing the signs of hyperpigmentation and brightening skin.  This family of compounds also have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Hyaluronic Acid (hi-al-yur-on-ic) A molecule the occurs naturally in skin and the most powerful humectant known to science, hyaluronic acid binds water molecules and then binds to a protein in the cellular membrane of skin cells to provide lasting hydration.  Furthermore, by hydrating the skin hyaluronic acid can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Terpenes (tur-peens) The combination of hydrosol and glycerin extract helps to deliver a very wide array of terpenes to the skin.  Together, this group of organic compounds have been shown to have antiviral and anti-inflammatory properties.  They have also been implicated in combating compounds that can cause damage to DNA; although, these tests have not been conducted in living cells and should be considered very preliminary.

Vitamin B3 – Topical provitamin B3 has a variety of benefits for promoting and enhancing the barrier functions of skin as well as combating inflammation.  B3 is a precursor to cofactors that promote barrier protein and lipid production.  It has also been shown to inhibit the production of certain compounds that can inflame the skin.

Gentle Hydration Mask

Physical Form: Gel
Function: Booster, Soother, and Buffer

Arnica and Goldenseal – This combination of extracts fights inflammation, reduces swelling, and soothes skin when applied topically.  Arnica and goldenseal are great for all skin types and together are the base for many Botnia skincare products.  This mask is great for sunburns.

Hyaluronic Acid (hi-al-yur-on-ic) An incredibly effective humectant, hyaluronic acid holds 1,000 times its weight in water.  Furthermore, hyaluronic acid binds to cell-surface proteins thus delivering and holding moisture in the intercellular matrix.  This molecule also acts as a natural delivery system driving larger or hydrophilic molecules that do not easily penetrate the skin’s surface.  

Saccharides (sak-ah-rides) A water-binding carbohydrate, saccharide isomerate acts as a humectant and emollient on the skin.  By binding to the keratin molecules in the stratum corneum, these little molecules draw moisture into the skin without being easily washed off.  Paired with the hyaluronic acid this winning combo helps skin maintain hydration for up to 72hrs and is a great treatment for dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin.

Rose Geranium Hydrosol – Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, rose geranium is great for very sensitive skin types.  Organic acids aid in exfoliation and create glowing, refreshed skin.

Vitamin B3 – Topical provitamin B3 has a variety of benefits for promoting and enhancing the barrier functions of skin as well as combating inflammation.  B3 is a precursor to cofactors that promote barrier protein and lipid production.  It has also been shown to inhibit the production of certain compounds that can inflame the skin.

Floral Waters

Rose Geranium Hydrosol

Physical Form: Liquid
Function: Buffer, Soother

Hydrosol (hi-droh-sall) – Also known as a distillate or flower water, hydrosol refers to the extraction process.  Steam is passed through fresh plant tissue inside of a sealed environment and the steam is condensed into an aqueous solution.  This process extracts both water and oil soluble compounds from the plant tissue while leaving behind some of the more harsh compounds.

Organic Acids – A variety of small and large-chain organic acids provide astringent qualities and help to promote cellular turnover by weakening intercellular proteins and lipids.

Colloidal Suspension (coh-loid-all)Refers to the emulsion of oils as nanodroplets in an aqueous solution.  Colloidal suspensions of rose geranium oils, such as that found in geranium hydrosol, have been shown to have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects.

Juniper Hydrosol

Physical Form: Liquid
Function: Pusher, Amplifier

Limonene (li-moe-neen) – A chemical compound known as a terpene, limonene is excellent for dissolving oils and waxes.  This oil-dissolving ability helps to treat oily skin and to fight acne and congested pores.

Pinene (pie-neen)Juniper is a source of the terpene, pinene, which has been shown to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.  Pinene disrupts the cellular function of bacterial cells thus inhibiting their growth and ability to replicate.

Cymene (sie-meen)A powerful antifungal agent, cymene helps to fight fungal pathogens on the surface of the skin.

Myrcene (mur-seen) Another terpene, myrcene has been shown to inhibit the production of the free radical nitric oxide.  Nitric oxide plays a role in causing skin inflammation, making myrcene an inhibitor of inflammation.

*Don’t use with hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid or other pushers

Exfoliators

Enzymes Pumpkin and Pomegranate

Physical form: Powder
Function: Exfoliator, Booster

Enzymes – By digesting extracellular structural proteins, enzymes help to loosen and remove dead skin cells.  The molecular structure of pumpkin and pomegranate enzymes are small and can, therefore, penetrate more deeply into the skin when used topically. Furthermore, in skin-irritant studies pumpkin and pomegranate enzymes have proven less inflammatory than other plant enzymes such as papain.  This is amazing for treating a dull complexion, aging skin, acne, and pigmentation.

 

Vitamin A and Vitamin C- These vitamins help soften and soothe the skin while boosting collagen production to increase elasticity and firmness to prevent the signs of aging.
Pomegranate (pom-ah-gran-it) Purified pomegranate enzymes protect the epidermis and dermis by encouraging skin cell regeneration, aiding in the repair of tissues, healing wounds, and encouraging circulation to skin that is healing. Oily or combination skin types that are acne prone benefit from pomegranate to sooth these outbreaks and minimize burns or scarring that can occur during breakouts.

Glycolic Acid, pH 2.9

Physical Form: Liquid
Function: Exfoliator, Pusher

Keratolytic (kare-at-oh-lih-tic) – An AHA derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is an incredibly small molecule, allowing it to penetrate skin and dissolve the connective proteins and lipids surrounding skin cells for a clean exfoliation.  This same chemical trait can help to unclog congested pores.

Cellular Turnover – By disrupting and weakening the intracellular structural proteins and lipids of the epidermis, glycolic acid exfoliates dead skin cells thus revealing the healthy cells underneath.

Pusher – Due to its small molecular structure, glycolic acid can act as a carrier to drive other compounds that might normally only reach the outermost layers of the skin more deeply into the skin.

Low pH – The low pH of glycolic acid drastically changes the environment in the surface of the skin.  Since most bacterial species cannot survive such harsh conditions, glycolic acid also acts as an effective antipathogenic treatment.

*Contraindicated for dehydrated skin or sensitive skin.

Lactic Rose Peel

Physical Form: Gel
Function: Exfoliator, Amplifier

Lactic Acid – The most gentle of the AHA’s, lactic acid hydrates, increases natural barrier lipids in the outer layer of skin, and lightens and brightens the look of skin for those with discoloration.  As with other organic acids, lactic acid also acts as a keratolytic compound, breaking down structural, intracellular proteins and aiding in removing dead skin cells from the epidermis.

Rose Hydrosol – Anti-septic and great for very sensitive skin types, rose hydrosol also has organic acids that aid in exfoliation.

Beta-carotene (bay-tah-kare-oh-teen) Derived from carrots, beta-carotene is the precursor to bioavailable vitamin A and is effective at mitigating discoloration and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  Beta-carotene also reduces oxidative stress without irritating skin.

Vitamin B5 – Provitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) is readily absorbed by the epidermis and converted into vitamin B5.  This vitamin is essential to many cellular processes and helps to build and maintain healthy moisture levels in skin.

Terpenes (tur-peens) Phenolic compounds such as terpenes soothe and calm even the most sensitive skin types while also serving as an antibacterial agent to prevent dermatitis in acid-treated skin.

Boosters

Ultimate Hydration Booster

Physical Form: Gel
Function: Booster, Soother, Pusher

Saccharides (sak-ah-rides)Sugar molecules that work to hydrate the skin.  These saccharides bind water molecules and then bind to proteins in the intercellular matrix surrounding skin cells to provide lasting hydration.

Hyaluronic Acid (hi-al-yur-on-ic)A molecule the occurs naturally in skin and other tissues and the most powerful humectant known to science, hyaluronic acid binds water molecules and then binds to a protein in the cellular membrane of skin cells to provide lasting hydration.  Furthermore, by hydrating the skin, hyaluronic acid can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin B3 – Topical provitamin B3 has a variety of benefits for promoting and enhancing the barrier functions of skin and combating inflammation.  B3 is a precursor to cofactors that promote barrier protein and lipid production.  It has also been shown to inhibit the production of certain compounds that can inflame the skin.

Ultra Calm Booster

Physical Form: Glycerin Extract
Function: Booster, Soother

Chamomile – Chamomile has a wide array of organic compounds that are beneficial for the skin.  Terpenes such as chamazulene and apigenin have been shown to fight inflammation.  Organic acids such as caffeic acid fight bacteria and help promote cellular turnover.  The flavonoid quercetin has been shown to inhibit melanin production thus helping with hyperpigmentation.

Goldenseal – Goldenseal is renowned for its antibacterial activity.  This alkaloid-rich extract combats bacterial cells through the synergistic effects of a variety of organic compounds without damaging or inflaming skin cells.

Arnica – Arnica has long been prized for its soothing properties and its ability to reduce the appearance of bruising.  While the exact mechanisms for these effects is poorly understood, the efficacy of arnica as a topical anti-inflammatory is well-documented.

Extraction Booster

Physical Form: Glycerin Extract
Function: Buffer, Soother, Booster

Witch Hazel – Witch hazel has a long history of use as an astringent, which serves to tighten the skin and reduce pore size.  The tannin and gallic acid content of witch hazel is the likely mechanism for this benefit.

Goldenseal – Goldenseal is renowned for its antibacterial activity.  This alkaloid-rich extract combats bacterial cells through the synergistic effects of a variety of organic compounds without damaging or inflaming skin cells.

Arnica – Arnica has long been prized for its soothing properties and its ability to reduce the appearance of bruising.  While the exact mechanisms for these effects is poorly understood, the efficacy of arnica as a topical anti-inflammatory is well-documented.

Goldenseal Cure

Physical Form: Glycerin Extract
Function: Soother and Booster

Alkaloids (al-kah-loids)Goldenseal root and bark tissues contain a variety of organic compounds called alkaloids such as berberine and hydrastine.  Studies have shown that together the family of alkaloids in goldenseal work synergistically to fight bacteria and fungi more effectively than any one of the compounds individually.

Antibacterial – Studies have shown that goldenseal root extracts effectively act as an antibacterial agent and can even help combat drug-resistant staphylococcus bacteria.  One method by which this is achieved is that the chemical compounds of whole-plant goldenseal extract work synergistically to reduce bacterial cells’ ability to export and eject antibacterial chemicals.  These compounds, known as efflux inhibitors, have yet to be identified, but their efficacy has been supported by multiple studies.

Antiseptic Booster

Physical Form: Glycerin Extract
Function: Booster, Amplifier

Witch Hazel – Witch hazel has a long history of use as an astringent, which serves to tighten the skin and reduce pore size.  The tannin and gallic acid content of witch hazel is the likely mechanism for this benefit.

Willow – Willow tree bark extract provides a natural source of salicylic acid, which is widely and effectively used as a treatment for acne and congested pores.  Salicylic and other organic acids also help break down the intercellular matrix of lipids and proteins, which helps to exfoliate dead skin cells and increase cellular turnover.  Furthermore, the natural salicylic acid works synergistically with other compounds to fight inflammation and kill bacteria on the skin.

Body

Body Cream

Physical Form: Cream
Function:  Soother

Jojoba Oil (ho-ho-bah) Classified as a liquid wax, jojoba oil is comprised mostly of fatty acid esters and has very low triglyceride content making it resistant to oxidation.  These waxy esters make jojoba oil soothing and non-greasy.

Unrefined Shea Butter – The refining process for shea butter typically uses hexane as a solvent, and despite a high vapor pressure and a low boiling point, this process typically leaves some level of residue, which is why we only use unrefined shea butter.  Solvent extraction also removes many beneficial chemicals such as tannins that help to soothe and calm skin.  Shea butter is also rich in oleic and linoleic fatty acids, which are helpful for softening skin.

Vitamin E – A powerful antioxidant, vitamin E helps to reduce oxidative stress in skin.

Glossary Terms

Glossary Terms

Physical forms:  Refers to the actual form of the ingredient or botanical. Types of physical forms are: powder, gel, liquid, oil, yogurt, honey, pre-made mixes, and glycerin extracts

Functions:  Refers the effect the ingredient of formulation has on skin.  We define this functions as: activators, soothers, pushers, buffers, boosters, amplifiers, and exfoliators.  All of these make your facial plan come to life.

Activator – Turns a raw ingredients into a active ingredient.  This term usually refers to ingredients that help acids and other other ingredients do their job better.  Think of it like turning on the light switch. An example of an activator is the goat’s milk yogurt.  While it is an exfoliator, it is also an activator, helping digest the botanical and expose its nutrients to the skin.

Soother – Takes inflammation down in the  epidermis.  Also takes away topical sensitivity.

Pusher – Pushes the product more deeply into the epidermis and dermis.

Buffer – Buffers the potency of the formulation.  Frequently used with acids to protect the skin while the acids do their jobs.

Booster – Boosts potency in treatment and improves efficiency.

Amplifier – Makes an ingredient work more than it would on its own.  Synergistically enhances the effects of the formulation as a whole.

Exfoliator – Digests or weakens the matrix of lipids and proteins that surround skin cells to allow for easier removal of dead cells from the surface of the skin.

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